Betty asked me to post these for her and the text following. dtb
This is an ancient Coptic Church built in a natural cave which sits high in a cliff-face overlooking Cairo, Egypt. The shrine is opposite the entrance to the church. For some reason, not entirely clear to me, it seemed fitting to make this post at this time of year.
To add to the store of Christmas customs: This year I will be in Prague for Christmas, which lasts for three days. Some say the three days are handy for celebrating with the whole extended family while at the same time keeping feuding family members separated. Others think it's because flats are too small to entertain the whole family at once. Regardless, it seems an ideal solution to the age-old Western bind of whose family gets young couples for Christmas..hers or his.
The Day here is the 24th. The entire household is busy (often frantically so) perparing for the kickoff of the holidays, which begin with the evening meal. If there are children in the family, one room has already been ruled off-limits and locked. The poor children usually have no jobs and wait in growing frustration throughout the entire day including the long, unhurried dinner.
Dinner is quite formal with everyone dressed in holiday best including suits and ties for the men. Candlelight reflects heirloom china, silver, and crystal set out on the best linen cloth, soft Christmas music is playing. Very romantic and formal in all ways but one---under the table all feet are shod in ratty old house slippers, usually of some clashing colors and showing much wear. The incongruity always cracks me up! Makes me feel as though I'm on a stage or film set. Never mind the shoes...they're out of the shot.
Before anyone is seated, each person circles the table shaking hands, kissing cheeks, and offering best wishes for the coming year. There is often an empty place reserved for 'the stranger who might come to the door.' Once seated, the toasts begin. There are usually three wine glasses at each place and the kind of wine changes with each course. The menu follows long traditon--so long that nobody knows the how or why of it. Fish soup for the starter, followed by fried carp, potato salad and rolls. Dessert is usually enormous platters of miniscule Christmas cookies that are always homemade and have been accumulating over a period of several weeks. Women specialize in several different kinds, and by the time guests add their contributions, there can be fifty or more different kinds...every last one of them a melt-in-your-mouth bit of pastry. Although the menu is not large, the portions are, and it's "Eat! Eat! Eat!" until you're ready to burst.
This is a very leisurely meal with much happy conversation and reminiscing. Antsy children are shushed. But eventually, someone hears a bell ringing somewhere in the house. The chidren are off and running, but they must wait outside the locked door until all grownups have shuffled along to their places. Finally, the door is opened onto a room only dimly light by a couple of candles. But it's enough to make out a huge tree standing in the bay window with lots of brightly wrapped gifts underneath. One child is chosen to light the many, REAL candles decorating the tree (they say they've never known of any trouble over real candles---EVER) and to hand round the gifts. In the meantime, the adults are chatting and tending to their after-dinner drinks.
Other traditions include a coin under someone's dinner plate. The finder can expect money in the coming year. An apple sitting beside each plate is cut. When you cut your apple, you hope the seeds will form a star....in which case, you will find your true love in the new year. So, if you haven't already, may you find a coin under your plate and a star in your apple.
Veselé vanoce a st´astný nový rok.
Love,
Betty Peck Wallwork Tegtmeier
